05-03-2019, 03:41 AM
(This post was last modified: 05-03-2019, 03:53 AM by James Blint.)
Many options
- Move bias back, reasonably, one or two clicks at a time.
- More negative camber / positive toe
- More aero, that counts for braking, but can't remember exactly how much you can change it on the Evora. It can also compensate some of the added bias. Put enough of it so you don't start rotating too much with mid pressure brake, typically you want some lightness on the back at the end of the braking zone to help turning, but not halfway in the zone.
- Brake more in line, straighter wheels. Hard at first to break the most speed while you still have the weight transfer going on, but easy it up quicker (more so than usual with ABS)
- Play with tyres pressure, see what works best in the front for a particular track. Don't overheat the front, usually that's better to have higher pressure than higher temp, to limit locking. If you get in a death circle of heat/locking, don't panic just hit your marks a bit earlier until it settles back right.
I don't like lowering brake pressure without ABS, you can still apply full pressure in plenty more situations than just straight lignes, just have to modulate it more. This is going to significantly increase your braking distance, to miss all the parts of the braking you could have smashed it but if more comfortable with it and you feel you can push harder or be more consistent, then fine (driver confidence in the car/setup is always key to laptimes)
- Move bias back, reasonably, one or two clicks at a time.
- More negative camber / positive toe
- More aero, that counts for braking, but can't remember exactly how much you can change it on the Evora. It can also compensate some of the added bias. Put enough of it so you don't start rotating too much with mid pressure brake, typically you want some lightness on the back at the end of the braking zone to help turning, but not halfway in the zone.
- Brake more in line, straighter wheels. Hard at first to break the most speed while you still have the weight transfer going on, but easy it up quicker (more so than usual with ABS)
- Play with tyres pressure, see what works best in the front for a particular track. Don't overheat the front, usually that's better to have higher pressure than higher temp, to limit locking. If you get in a death circle of heat/locking, don't panic just hit your marks a bit earlier until it settles back right.
I don't like lowering brake pressure without ABS, you can still apply full pressure in plenty more situations than just straight lignes, just have to modulate it more. This is going to significantly increase your braking distance, to miss all the parts of the braking you could have smashed it but if more comfortable with it and you feel you can push harder or be more consistent, then fine (driver confidence in the car/setup is always key to laptimes)